Leading IFSC World Cup: Garnbret remains unmatched, Grupper takes first gold in France

The fourth entry in the 2022 IFSC (International Federation of Sports Climbing) World Cup Series kicked off by a wide margin in Brianson, France, over the weekend.

The IFSC World Cup is back in the French Alps After a week-long hiatus from competition on the circuit, the break seemed to be paying off for a few climbers.

It seemed to benefit the Federation’s course-setting team, too. After receiving some blatant criticism from the high places for putting up sub-par routes in the past two competitions, the IFSC judges have finally halted the landing at Briançon.

IFSC leads World Cup results

Janja Garnbret (SLO) competed in the 2022 World Cup Lead in Briançon, France; (Image/IFSC)

Tight wins came in both the men’s and women’s teams. In the end, Slovenia Ganga Garnpreet She continued her uninterrupted reign through the season.

On the men’s front, American climber Jesse Gruber, who previously won a bronze and a silver this season, finally took home his first-ever gold medal at the IFSC. Grupper quickly became one of the most consistent performers of the 2022 lead season.

Women’s Lead Competition

Chihyun Seo competing in the 2022 World Cup Finals in Briancon, France;  (Image/IFSC)
Chaehyun Seo (KOR) competes in the 2022 World Cup Final in Brianson, France; (Image/IFSC)

Two weeks ago, a number of climbers joined Garnbret in criticizing the preparation of the route in Innsbruck, which topped almost all climbers in the final round. The setting was noticeably more harmonious in Briancon.

None of the women reached the top of the final track this weekend. Garnbret almost made it, just clean the top of the mount before it explodes and scores 42+. The maneuver put it one point ahead of silver medalist Korea’s Chaehyun Seo, who scored more than 41 points. Natalia Grossman (USA) and teammate Brock Raboteau tied for the bronze with 41 points, but the countdown finally broke the tie in Grossman’s favour.

It’s the 53rd Garnbret World Cup medal and the 36th gold. It’s also her 22nd gold medal in LEED alone, a statistic that puts her third in the World Cup standings ever, behind Jane Kim and Austria’s Angela Etter.

podium at the women's lead event in Brianson, France;  (Image/IFSC)
podium at the women’s lead event in Brianson, France; (Image/IFSC)

Women’s results

  1. Janja Garnbret (SLO): 42+
  2. Chaehyun Seo (South Korea): +41
  3. Natalia Grossman (USA): 41
  4. Brooke Raboteau (USA) is 41
  5. Natsuki Tani (Japan): 37+

Women’s World Cup results

Men’s lead competition

Taisei Homa (Japan) competes in the 2022 World Cup Final in Briancon, France;  (Image/IFSC)
Taisei Homa (Japan) competes in the 2022 World Cup Final in Bryanson, France; (Image/IFSC)

It was a perfect competition for American Jesse Gruber. Not only did the 25-year-old do his best in the qualifying round, he also made a repeat run in the semi-finals, and was one of only two semi-final climbers to top the track.

Although none of the men’s competitors managed to make it past the final track at Bryanson, Grupper came closest by dominating the 37th place. It’s his third place on the podium in four major competitions this year.

Speaking of the performance later, he threw himself in an ironic light.

“I’m still pretty much in shock and so stunned! I feel like this was probably one of the worst roads climbed in my life in some ways, but I was also really excited to keep fighting through every step and I felt so good about it,” Gruber said.

Alex Migos (Germany) competing in the 2022 World Cup Final in Briancon, France;  (Image/IFSC)
Alex Migos (Germany) competing in the 2022 World Cup Final in Bryanson, France; (Image/IFSC)

One of the top performers of the season, Taisei Homa of Japan, finished second in the men’s with a score of 35+. It’s Homma’s second straight silver and third podium finish of the season – he won the gold at Villars.

Germany’s Alexandre Migos was also third with a score of 35+. Break the count to the semi-final tie. It’s the first time this season that Migos has climbed to the podium. He earned his last IFSC medal in the 2021 Lead competition at Villars.

podium at the men's lead event in Brianson, France;  (Image/IFSC)
podium at the men’s lead event in Brianson, France; (Image/IFSC)

Men’s results

  1. Jesse Gruber (USA): 37
  2. Taisei Homa (Japan): 35+
  3. Alexandre Migos (Gear): 35+
  4. Jannick Flüh (Germany): +35
  5. Colin Duffy (USA): 34+

Men’s World Cup results

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