Climber Franjos highest confidence in the IFSC World Cup

“Every year has its ups and downs, but I feel physically and mentally at my best so far, and there are still more improvements to come.”

Canmore – One of Canada’s top climbers Peca Franjos has her eyes set on the Summer Olympics and the key to getting the Canmore native might be to stop caring so much.

Big changes loom in athletic climbing and qualifying for the Olympics will become even more difficult for athletes. However, despite the tough road ahead, the 24-year-old rockstar says her confidence hasn’t been this high in years.

Franjos said in an email to prospects. “This might sound weird, but I feel like this year I’ve really managed to stop caring so much and really have a renewed perspective on life.”

Franjos is currently in France with the rest of the world’s top sport climbers while on tour at the IFSC World Cup Climbing. She’s vying for the lead this weekend in Bryanson.

France is also where Franjos hopes to climb in two years from now when the 2024 Olympics come in Paris.

After graduating last year from Victoria University with a bachelor’s degree in biology and psychology, Franjos said she took it all off to focus on getting to Paris.

“Of course it’s been my dream for a long time to represent Canada in the Olympics and I’m working hard to make that dream a reality, but it’s not everything to me,” said Franjos. “I still have a lot of other goals to achieve at the level of the World Cup as well as outdoors and many goals outside the sport.”

Although things will turn in a new direction in the World Cup circuit next season which is not beneficial for the athletes. Each country will only give a basic quota of two athletes instead of five – making competition in the World Cup even more difficult. On top of the change, the Olympic qualifiers start in August 2023.

It has been a sober year for Franjos. Grieving over a horrific family tragedy, she fell ill with coronavirus in May after traveling to the United States to prepare for the World Cup. Her season has been dealt a major blow due to the lingering effects of the virus.

“After I finished quarantine and no longer felt sick, the biggest challenge for me while recovering from COVID was that my energy levels were really low for about three weeks even after testing negative,” Franjos said.

“This made it really difficult to train properly before the last few rocky events of the season in June, and I also found it difficult to keep my heart rate down when I was climbing the lead.”

So far, she has yet to qualify for the World Cup semi-finals this season (top 20 rock, top 26 in the lead). However, among the 85-105 climbers in two majors, Frangos has been making positive improvements and finishing in the top half of the field in her best leading event of the season.

“Make the semi-finals of the World Cup more difficult every season,” she said. “With the lead climbing, the 15-20 position difference at a World Cup level is usually just a few moves, and often the results don’t show the whole picture.”

In the current rankings for the 2022 World Cup, Franjos ranks second among Canadian women in the lead, and sixth in The Rock. While recovering from COVID, Franjos has competed in two of her three rocky events this season.

“There is still a lot to happen [for] “The remainder of this season to prepare myself well for next year, but I feel like I’m really heading in the right direction to make that happen,” Franjos said.

In Tokyo 2020, when sports climbing made its Olympic debut, all three disciplines – speed, driving and rock – were combined into one event. Not many thought it was a true representation of the sport and things would be different in Paris.

Speed ​​is an event of its own and lead and rock will be combined in 2024. There will be a total of 20 points each for both men and women in the lead and rock together.

“Every year has its ups and downs, but I feel physically and mentally at my best so far, and there are still more improvements to come,” Franjos said.

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